Trouser Quest: Thinking
I have an old drafting book from the early nineties called Creative Cutting by Diana Hawkins which promises easy ways to design and make stylish clothes. I was just going to draft up something from that. But then I started looking at the internet and became ensnared for a whole evening in the maelstrom of drafting methodologies.
I then had a chat to a mum at the primary school during the Bunting Bonanza who was a pattern maker in her former life. She confirmed my initial conclusions: trouser drafting is contentious and tricky. Even if you draft from your measurements, getting the rise right is a difficult thing. The rise is the distance between crotch and waist in a pair of trousers. Her suggestion was make a pattern from a pair of trousers that fit really well already and use this as a block from which to draft. Apparently, the fashion industry copies garments to redraft all the time. I am not sure if I have a pair which fits really well already.
Another friend and dear reader who is an extraordinary home seamstress swears by New Look 6713 – a perfect trouser pattern apparently. They certainly look very flattering and elegant on her. But will they on me? I am not sure. My friend is tall and curvy. I am short and could do with some curve in the rear end department. I am tempted though…the perfect trouser pattern! I have my interfacing ready to trace the pattern and cut out a toile.
I am beginning to get the sense that I might end up with quite a few blocks/patterns/garments on this Quest. But that sounds just right for a Quest of such ambitious proportions.