I had every intention of posting a craft post this week.
Instead, I am waiting purposefully for some energy to return. I came across that phrase recently, listening to the wonderful Saga Land by Richard Fildler and Kari Gislason. It describes perfectly the kind of waiting you do whilst fishing or (I think) recovering from illness.
Just when you think you are almost a normal person, CFS/ME likes to give you a bit of whack around the head to remind you about pacing, being careful, going slow blah blah. Over the last week, I’ve had various kids sick, the dog sick, parent/teacher information nights, an indigo vat success and miscellaneous family errands to run and now I find myself unable to walk in a straight line. Making school lunches this morning was like getting through a physics exam when you studied for geography and any kind of moving feels like dragging someone’s else body up a muddy hill.
So sorry, no tales of Tuff Socks or natural dyeing derring do this week, I reckon I can manage to stick one photo in and that’s my limit. See you next week, bonny and blithe.
Acquisitions and Discoveries is a special segment on Sarah Hunt’s Fibertrek, a podcast about wool and place. I love the name as it shifts the focus away from the consumption of new products to something that invites more curiousity, something that an entomologist or an ethnologist might report on. It suggestions a process of investigation and exploration.
In that light then, I have two Acquisitions and Discoveries to report on.
The first is a beautiful new fibre from Granite Haven, sent to me to sample. It is a pure, undyed Gotland top processed by Cashmere Connections and it is wonderous to behold, handle, spin and knit.
The colour is classic Gotland gray, a stunning dark silver. Often during processing, the lustre of Gotland is lost, but Cashmere Connections have managed to retain the shine and luminescence of the fleece. Part of this light must come from the blending of many different shades of grey into the fibre. The handle is silky soft and can be worn next to the skin.
I spun it straight from the top which is wide and generous, almost like a batt. I spun it with a modified worsted draw, letting some twist come into the drafting zone pulling the top back slowly and smoothing with my fingers. In my experience Gotland, seems to need a little woollen loft in the spin.
The yarn was heavenly to knit and bloomed significantly after washing. It would make a sturdy yet luxurious garment. I see it as a long line cardigan with enough ease that you could wrap it around you a bit…with deep pockets perhaps.
This fibre is grown, scoured and processed entirely in Victoria and is available on the Granite Haven website for $28 AUD per 200 g.
The second fibre I want to share is undyed flax top from FeltFine. I got this because I’ve fallen in love with Tegna (like so many other folks) and thought it would be fun to spin for. This fibre preparation is quite different from the traditional flax line and tow preparations. It has been processed more like wool. There aren’t super long fibres in this, nor super short so it doesn’t tangle or ball in the spinning and it is quite fine in comparison to other flax I’ve spun. The top form is ideal for blending with other fibres and I still spun it with wet fingers.
To sample, I blended the flax with some fine wool on hand carders, spun a two ply fingering weight and it knitted up with just the right amount of drape and elasticity for my purposes and will soften with wear. This is definitely flax made easy.
The product is from Europe via UK and imported into Australia but that’s all I know of its origins. It is available from FeltFine for $7.00 per 100 g. They have bleached and blended preparations too.
Disclaimer: No one has asked me to write about these fibres and I receive no income from doing so. If I didn’t like the product, I simply wouldn’t write about it.
For me, the year doesn’t really begin until February 1st, just after the school year begins. From Christmas till then, the days are full of family, holiday trips and summer heat. This year we visited Tasmania and did some short walks at Cradle Mountain.
We also had some lovely river camping in north central Victoria.
I have enough energy to participate in family holidays now rather than just attend. I am still not doing everything but my strength and stamina grow gradually every month. And in between family activities, I was still able to get some small spins done.
This is 100g of a two ply, semi woollen sportsweight yarn, spun from Gotland and llama prepared top from Granite Haven Farm. This was going to be for a small shawl to knit on holidays but I took the wrong needles. Now, I think it is rather too tweedy for a lace shawl so perhaps it will become a hat instead.
This is 100g of a two ply, semi woollen fingering weight yarn from First Editions prepared top, 80% merino and 20% camel. This was from deep stash and I’ve been meaning to make it up for ages. Both these yarns were part of an exploration in increasing my spinning speed, finding a balance between the speed of a woollen draw and the durability of a worsted preparation. The commercial preparation of course reduces the time spent preparing from fleece. This kind of yarn is perfect for low abrasion projects such as shawls, scarfs and hats.
Here you see 60g of a two ply, worsted lace weight from a Border Leceister x Merino fleece. I spun up 100 grams of this a few months ago and decided after spinning to use it for a Featherweight Cardigan by Hannah Fettig. I didn’t have quite enough yardage but thanks to the super nerdy documentation I have been maintaining recently, I had all the ratios and samples I needed to duplicate that yarn. I do feel a bit proud of that skein…it really does match the original yarn.
Being holidays and away from home, I got quite a bit of knitting done. I finished this beautiful shawl/ette/scarf in Tasmania from birthday yarn and needles. The yarn is Knitcraft and Knittery Fingering Weight Merino, grown and dyed in Tasmania from New Merino, an ethical, sustainable yarn base. The colour is Sandilocks and it is a luminous, slightly variegated shade of mustard, the colour of late summer in Australia. The yarn itself is a treat to knit, firmly spun with great stitch definition and very soft. The pattern is Old Vine by Knox Mountain Knit Co. I enjoyed the knit so much, I bought some alpaca fingering weight from The Alpaca Shoppe in Deloraine and knit up another birthday shawl for a friend.
I also made some headway on a large project for the lovely gentleman in my life, a CustomFit Helm by Amy Herzog in the deeply tweedy 58FC 2 ply Jumperweight by Jamieson and Smith.
The front and back and one sleeve are done and I’ve started the second sleeve.
Ooops, I also forgot to post these from last year…the sister pair to these Goldfields Mitts I posted way back in August last year. The fushia pink yarn is spun from merino top I won from the Australian Sheep and Wool Show some years ago and the white yarn is Paton’s Herdwick from an op shop. The pattern is Selbu Mittens from Norweigan Knits by Suzanne Pagoldh.
Phew! All caught up now and ready for a brand new year. More Tuff Socks Naturally, more fleeces explored, more dyeing, more knitting, more health, more vigour, more life.
Compliments of the season to you all. Our Dear Girl made this card.
This is my last post for 2017. Needle & Spindle will be having a wee rest over the Festive Season and probably most of the January school holidays too. Thank you for being such enthusiastic, loyal readers this year. I have cherished this space and the return of making and sharing to my life.
Before things wind down (up) too much before Christmas, I thought it timely to update the Tuff Socks Naturally project. This project is an open, collaborative project, a spinning and knitting adventure, exploring natural, local, more sustainable alternatives to the current superwash and nylon sock yarns and fibres.
I just finished my second pair of socks for the project, a 3 ply worsted sock yarn hand spun from a Corriedale x Ryeland x Finn fleece from Lucinvale Fleeces, reinforced at heels and toes with a mohair laceweight spun up from fifth clip mohair locks from Mohair Rare. I will post these properly next year with all their geeky deets.
Now, let’s catch up with the other Tuff Socks comrades. Mary from Local & Bespoke has just finished spinning and knitting a lovely pair of cabled socks from a blend of Blue Faced Leceister, Texel and Silk. She spun these fine with a tight twist and they look super handsome.
My first pair of no nylon, non super wash socks for the #tuffsocksnaturally project. These might be more natural than tough, because I overachieved and the yarn is spun so finely. Whimsical cables on #handspunyarn #texel #bluefacedleicester #silk blend. #knittersofinstagram #spinnersofinstagram #knitting #sockknittersofinstagram #sock
Adele has one half of pair of socks hand spun and knitted from Shropshire tops from Shropshire Woolies and she’s made some sample swatches to test machine washing.
I didn’t quite spin enough for my tuff socks so they have been put on hold while I wait for a glitch in my wheel to get fixed. I used what I had left over from the first sock to knit some swatches for experimenting on. The left is before washing and the right is after a wash at 90 degrees. I never wash anything at 90 degrees but I wanted to see what would happen to the fibre. It shrunk ever so slightly but not enough that it would alter the fit of the sock. Marilyn at Shropshire Woollies recommends spinning a woollen yarn. I was a bit hesitant for socks as woollen lacks the durability of worsted so I compensated by adding an extra ply. I am glad that I did this as the fabric blooms and is definitely soft enough for even the most anti wool people in our lives (especially on bare toes) I am looking forward to seeing how well these wear once the weather cools down. I also want to try some worsted spun to see what kind of fabric I get. So much to explore… #tuffsocksnaturally #handspunyarn #shropshirewoollies
We’ve also had some other folks join our open sock exploration. Clare Devine from Knit Share Love made a pair of socks in Blacker Yarns Mohair Sock. She wore them non stop on a UK trip for a month and will be sharing her thoughts on how they went in the new year. Look out for a post on her blog.
Lauren Champs from South Australia is going to be making a pair of bushwalking socks from this lovely Shropshire wool.
day 16 // [future] socks I’m tagging along on the #tuffsocksnaturally exploration that @rebeccaspindle @adelemoon and @localandbespoke are doing. This here Shropshire wool from Victoria will eventually be spun and knitted into a pair of socks that I’m hoping will be resistant to felting and make rather lovely bushwalking socks. #wovemberinstachallenge #wearwooleveryday #wearwoolforwovember
Josh Moll from the Netherlands made these walnut dyed socks, reinforcing the heels with a strand of mohair.
Somebody else stole my just finished #bakerybearspodcast #snowfall socks. My daughter loves them too. I will knit new ones for myself and she can wear them in her hiking boots. #tuffsocksnaturally #strickenisttoll #stricken #knitting #tricoter #breien #breienisleuk #tricotercestcool #knittingaddict #knittingforfriends #knittersofinstagram #knittersoftheworld #designersofinstagram #knitweardesign #themakersyear #nevernotmaking #designlife #designinspiration #designdecisions #designprocess #ilovethiswork
It is super exciting seeing the socks starting to emerge on Instagram. We are using the tag #tuffsocksnaturally. Please use the tag for any fibre selections, spinning and knitting experiments and finished socks that fit the project theme. You can also share any information or links in the comments sections of this blog or Local & Bespoke.
After all the festive flusterings are done and it is time to start thinking of the New Year, why not start with a freshly spun/knitted pair of socks for the tuffsocksnaturally project. Do join us!
I look forward to seeing you back here next year.
Oh, there are so many things we should be doing…but sometimes things happen that are not procrastinations to be overcome or distractions to be ignored but digressions to be followed. I am practicing identifying and following the digressions, the little trickles of enthusiasm that lead ultimately to the sea of creativity, inspiration and life flow.
Here are a couple of my wanderings amidst the lists and directed activities.
About a month ago, our family visited the Ballarat Show and had the great fortunate to be just in time for a marvellous shearing display. The sheep were Corriedales, but Corriedales like none I had encountered before…the fleece was finer than fine. The farmer passed handfuls of fleece to the children watching. My children automatically passed theirs to me without disturbing the lock structure in the slightest (yes, well trained minions). The fleece looked like Merino but I knew I was definitely looking at Corriedale sheep. The farmer told me, he was breeding for fineness as those fleeces get a better price and at 26 micron, the fleeces were matching the lower end of Merino!
The yarn is elastic like Merino but easier to spin, more like Polwarth. It blocked beautifully. If I wanted to make a fine, heirloom shawl, I wouldn’t worry about Merino, I would track down that farmer and get some of that Corriedale. It was superb.
My next little foray didn’t look so auspicious. I had ordered a bag of ‘fine white alpaca’ from a secondary school in Melbourne where a friend teaches. They raise alpacas and were selling their annual shearing at $10 a bag. I thought a bag of white alpaca would be handy for blending and if it was full of chaff or really coarse, well $10 is not a big risk. The fleece I got was from an alpaca called Skywalker and looked like this.
If you are an alpaca newbie like me, you might be a little underwhelmed at this stage especially if you saw it in the bottom of a feed sack. I was expecting short crimpy staples, not matted, lanky hair. Well…it turns out this is Suri alpaca, not the more common Huacaya. Suri fibre is long, lustrous like silk and fine like cashmere but alpacas like to roll and Suri fibre gets matted with dirt. It is the ultimate diamond in the rough. After washing, and washing, I spun up a soft, woollen two ply laceweight.
It feels just wonderful and the colour is a beautiful, dusty beige. At eight times warmer than wool, this would make an incredible light, warm layer in winter. Unlike the Corriedale, the Suri has no elasticity so blocks and drapes amazingly well as lace. I also want to try combing and spinning from top, for a true worsted that highlights the lustre. It is so lovely, I can think of several projects already I’d like to spin this Suri for.
Shearing in Victoria seems to start in mid October and run through December. Some farms run open days where you can pick out the fleeces you want, others send out fleeces by the kilo in the post and others take orders prior to shearing.
I’ve had a special fleece on order for months and months. During the Spinning Certificate course, we were fortunate to sample many different kinds of sheep breeds and one fleece in particular really sang to me. It was a Finn x Corriedale fleece that really hit the sweetness note between softness and structure, lushness and durability.
That small sample became socks. Both the spinning and the knitting were a sublime experience and really wanted more time with this crossbreed. This week I was able to visit Fairfield Finns, near Bacchus Marsh and pick up my long awaited fleece.
Maureen Shepherd, the aptly named farmer of this flock had set aside two crossbreed fleeces for me and I picked the one that had the more open crimp, the more Finn-like qualities. Here, it is in all its glory on the wool table, a 3/4 Finn 1/4 Corriedale fleece. It is a wonderful fleece, not a hint of tenderness, springy and clean despite being uncoated. Maureen prepares all these fleeces beautifully, there is not a lock of lower quality nor a second cut to be seen. Every fleece is unrolled for your inspection.
I do think Fairfield Finns produce excellent fleeces. Their fleeces win many awards at the Australian Sheep and Wool Show and as Maureen is also a spinner, knitter and weaver, she knows what handspinners want in a fleece and these sheep are bred for softness, colour and handle.
This is Ben, the bottlefed sheep who came over to greet us on our way out. He is a real charmer, beguiling our group with whispers and kisses. I know the spinner who bought his lovely fleece, she got to meet him a week earlier, person to sheep. It is always a thrill to spin from someone you have met. I am not sure who my fleece came from, but I stood on the earth that raised it and that feels like a great gift.
I also bought the other half of that black fleece you can see in the bag there.
My plans for the white fleece are to wash it by the lock, comb it and spin the best darn 3 ply sportsweight I can, dye it naturally and then transform all that preparation into a cardigan with lots of twisted stitches and travelling stitches. And when you say it like that, it sounds like a doddle, belying the hundred or so hours that lie within such a project.
So thank you to all the farmers who look after their sheep and their land to keep bringing us an infinitely useful resource, that with our skills, time and the simplest of tools and processes, we can transform into warm, durable garments.
If you are local and you like the sound of Finnsheep, there are still fleeces available and an Open Day is planned for April.
This is a lovely variegated Shropshire fleece that comes from Shropshire Woollies, a sheep farm in the Strathbogie Ranges of Victoria. You can see there are three separate colours here, a dark brown, a light silver grey and a mid grey.
I purchased a kilo of this as part of the Tuff Socks Naturally project which explores alternatives to superwash merino and nylon blends for sock knitting. Like many downs fleeces, Shropshire resists felting so may be machine washable, making it a good candidate for sock spinning. I will talk more about Shropshire fleeces in a subsequent post but right now I want to chat about washing it.
Recently, I have become a lock washing convert but I wasn’t sure if that would be a useful method in the case of a downs fleece where the staples are blocky and sit firmly together in bricks. I tried washing the dark brown by the lock, row upon row laid out in a laundry bag and secured with safety pins. To compare, I packed another laundry bag loosely with fleece and then scoured both in the same way.
I use the hottest water I can get out of the hot tap and Handy Andy, an Australian and New Zealand floor cleaner (basically detergent with a little ammonia added). This is followed by a hot rinse and then a spin in washing machine.
Unlike, longer stapled locks like Merino, Corriedale and Gotland, I found there was no advantage in washing the Shropshire by lock. The lock structure of the loose fleece in the bags was perfectly preserved in big clumps with no fluffing or lock separation. In the photo above, the top locks were washed separately and the bottom locks were washed loose as in the laundry bag. You can see there is very little difference.
Like the complete nerd I am, I have begun recording fleece weight loss during scouring (just because it’s interesting). The Shropshire lost 30% of weight during scouring compared with 20% of a Border Leicester x Merino fleece I washed recently.
Sometimes, knitting is divination. Like casting the bones or a tarot spread, many things can be read in a piece of knitting. Not things to come but more Jungian type symbolic meanings giving deeper understanding of things that are.
The pattern is Balnarring by Whisky Bay Woollens, a pattern collection inspired by Victorian beaches. The yarn is Shilasdair Luxury 4ply from the Isle of Skye, in the UK, a blend of merino, alpaca and cashmere in the natural shade, Cloud, held together with my own handspun, a 2ply woollen spun, fingering weight from a Finnsheep fleece from Fairfield Finns. Project notes are raveled here.
- Whilst we alone make the stitches, our work is entangled in the lives of others. Many hands were instrumental in this making: a knitting friend created the pattern, a dear friend held my hand after a long hiatus from knitting, helping me decide on a project and choose the yarn. She found me another skein of Shilasdair when I ran out of yarn. A spinning friend generously gave me her Finnsheep fleece samples when I ran out of my hand spun yarn.
- Whilst we think that we travel in a straight line, life is circular and we come back to the same place many times. The cowl is knit from end to end and grafted to make a circle. The first section was begun in our old neighbourhood in Melbourne, growing inch by inch through the selling process and the moving, to finally finish in Ballarat, but without close inspection, you can’t tell where it begins or ends for life is a great circle.
- Deal carefully with the past or it shadows the present. Way back when I first carded the Finnsheep for an earlier project, I didn’t clean my tools properly. There was a small amount of black alpaca left on a carder. Years later, the alpaca has created a shadow on the otherwise clear white of cowl. It doesn’t seem a flaw though, just a reading point, another marked stone.
- New challenges can be uncomfortable but persistence brings mastery and flow. When I began this project, with the added layers of complexity that selling our home and moving had brought to my CFS fogged brain, I was struggling with multiple concepts in knitting. So I chose an unshaped article with an interesting stitch pattern. For the longest time, I had to follow the chart stitch by stitch but eventually I learned the pattern and understood the movement of it. Without looking at the chart, just looking at the stitches themselves, I could knit confidently, understanding which stitch was required.
- We have all that we need, trust to that. I didn’t really plan this project, I just knew I needed to cast on and knit something through the relocation process. I didn’t estimate yardage properly, just bought a couple of skeins and grabbed my Finnsheep leftovers from the Shackleton project. Despite running out of yarn multiple times, spinning more yarn twice, needing more fleece and more millspun yarn, at the point required in the pattern, I simply ran out of yarn with no hope of more. There were no more skeins of Shilasdair to be had, no more of that fleece to be had. I had enough to finish but no more.
Before I got sick, before I started my thesis, I bought a big Gotland fleece from the Granite Haven Open Day. These Open Days are wonderful events, the shearing shed is stacked full of beautiful fleeces, the smell of lanolin is intoxicating, the eucalypts shimmer and the place is packed with excited spinners, knitters and felters.
My intention was to spin up enough yarn to make the Abrams’s Bridge Cardigan by Mer Stevens from Pom Pom Quarterly Autumn 2015 which I have had my eye on well, since Autumn 2015! Stevens used Heirloom Romney by Fancy Tiger Crafts for this design.
The yarn is worsted weight yarn with a woolly loft made from long wool Romney sheep known for their lustre. The Gotland seemed a good choice for producing a yarn that would have similar qualities to that used by the designer.
I sampled some different approaches and worked out what I wanted. To get the loft, I flick carded the Gotland locks and spun them from the fold with a short forwards draw letting some twist into the drafting zone. I plied these a little firmer than I usually would as I want this to be a durable cardigan. For geeky details, the singles were spun on an 8:1 whorl and 2 singles plied on the 11.5:1 whorl at a rate of 2 inches per treadle and I have ended up with a yarn around 6 WPI and 6 TPI.
Granite Haven Open Day is this weekend, just near Euroa. Check out their facebook for details. Go and get some lovely Gotland!
I wish I could spin and knit faster. There are so many things I want to try out for the Tuff Socks Naturally Project. This project is a collaborative project exploring durable, non nylon, non superwash alternatives to the standard sock yarns and fibres around at the moment. It is an open project, so please join in at anytime with socks, ideas or fibre suggestions.
The Remade Spindle Socks constitute the first pair of socks for this project and I have just finished spinning for my second sock, like the first but with mohair reinforcing. This pair of socks will knitted from the same Corriedale x Ryeland x Finn fleece from Lucinvale Fleeces, spun into a 3 ply worsted sock (high twist) yarn. I was pleased with the spinning but I needed to be more consistent in the plying as I haven’t got quite the high twist I wanted throughout the skein. The difference between the two pairs is that these will be reinforced at heels and toes with a mohair laceweight yarn that I have spun from 5th clip mohair from Mohair Rare.
I bought this mohair to experiment with spinning embroidery floss as it retains all the lovely lustre of kid mohair but is coarser. That might be an appropriate choice for decorative embroidery floss but it may be too coarse for sock reinforcing but that will be another thing to find out. Lill Roberts from Mohair Rare is always on the lookout for uses for the fibre of her older girls as she doesn’t practice culling, so it is a good experiment to try. Because I have used the same base yarn for both socks, the addition of reinforcing in one pair should provide a clear comparison of wear rates.
I prepared the fleece by combing and whilst this is quite a time consuming preparation, it does speed up the spinning enormously and I have been experimenting with ways of speeding up the worsted draw to further reduce spinning times. I know Mary over at Local and Bespoke has drumcarded her Suffolk, silk and kid mohair blend and this is something I would like to explore further as a way of speeding up the whole sock process. I have seen drumcarded batts rolled parallel to the fibres for worsted spinning instead of the usually perpendicular roll used for woollen spinning, so I can try this with the next batch of fleece.
Since I last posted, I have been wearing my Corriedale x Ryeland x Finn remade socks as much as possible, which I confess has stalled a little since the weather has got warmer. Spring and Summer in Australia, are probably not ideal times to be exploring hand spun, hand knit socks but when the muse strikes, we must follow. I have been logging hours of wear and hand washes for the socks and will do this for all the socks I make. In this way, I can track wear over time.
I also made a swatch sample and have been machine washing this with my regular loads. The swatch is up to its third machine wash and I am excited to report that although the stitch count has tightened by a couple of stitches over 10cm, the row count has remained the same. This is remarkable for a woollen swatch and shows how the Ryeland qualities dominate this particular fleece. My success here led me to purchase some pure Ryeland fleece which should arrive soon and I will discuss the wonders of Ryeland fleece in a subsequent post.
Remember, Tuff Socks Naturally is an open project, anyone can join in. You can share your insights and experiments too, in comments on this blog or on Mary’s blog, Local and Bespoke, or with any of us on Instagram: @rebeccaspindle, @localandbespoke or @adelemoon using hashtag #tuffsocksnaturally.